Amy’s adventures in Ghana

The Chairman of Simli Aid, Mr Issah Adam, father died a couple of weeks ago. He was a fairly big Chief in Tamale.  After the burial it is the custom that the eldest son takes over the title of Chieftency.  I went along with some other Simli Aid staff.  It was one of the craziest afternoons I’ve had in Tamale! 

Firstly, we had to greet Issah. Being white, Pam and I were ushered into a room with all the important Chiefs and Mr Issah, which was a bit embarrassing as women aren’t usually allowed. I actually hate that kind of thing happening - being treated differently cos I’m white - so we just greeted him then managed to leave and sit outside with the rest of the women!  There was a huge gathering of people and it was very exciting, but we weren’t sure what was going to happen.

After a bit of a wait, suddenly everyone started shouting and moving and drums started and then Issah came out of his house dressed in a special smock, goatskin and hat, accompanied by lots of elders (all the folk we had orginally been sitting with!)

He walked to his father’s house and then mounted a horse to circle the house 3 times.  This was not easy considering 1. The houses are very close together, with only narrow alleys between them. 2. There were hundreds of people crowded round the house to watch.  3.  About 30 warriors (!) also surrounded the  house and fired a home made gun as the Chief on horse passed!

I felt so sorry for the horse, I don’t know how it coped.  Everyone was laughing at us being terrified of the guns. I think the thing is, the "warriors" look so dodgy, dressed in rags and the guns they use look like a highschool art project. 

After the guns and horse excitement there was lots of dancing.  It was definitely the best dancing I have seen in Ghana.  Usually what happens is there are about 4 drummers.  They start the beat then approach someone and force that person to dance.  If the crowd enjoys it they go into the circle and stick small money (500 or 1000 cedis) on the dancer or drummer. 

There was one male dancer who was great and everyone loved (wearing the stipy hat).  He was very funny and expressive and energetic!  I learnt later that he is a "magicman" and was performing magic whilst dancing, although I didn’t notice/realise.  Every time he tried to sit down, the crowd would go mad and the drummers would approach him again and he’d dance some more.  After a while, he came and grabbed me to join him, which caused major hilarity!  A siliminga and a magic man dancing  together!  It was very funny. I felt a bit nervous as there were so many people, but once I started I enjoyed it, and everyone was laughing and giving me money!! 

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