Amy’s adventures in Ghana

Easter weekend was a bit of a let down to be honest. We got Friday and Monday off and I was looking forward to some celebrations, but there wasn’t much going on. I guess because most people here are Muslim and so don’t celebrate Easter. We had talked about going to visit some waterfalls nearby, but 2 of our friends got malaria so that plan was scrapped.

On Easter Monday we went to a picnic at the Army barracks with some colleagues. I didn’t know what to expect and after a pretty boring weekend, it was a really nice surprise. It seems that most of Tamale were there. There was traditional drumming and dancing and lots of food and drinking and swimming. So that kind of cheered me up after feeling a bit down.

There was a big storm on Wednesday night which was quite exciting. Pam said it was just like a tropical hurricane, but only lasted for an hour or 2. There was loads of rain which is very much needed. The only problem is that it seems that some power lines got damaged during the storm so all the power in the whole of the Northern Region was off as of Wednesday night. So with no power in the office there was nothing really to do – amazing how much we rely on computers… A consequence of no power is that there has also been no water, as the pumping equipment isn’t working. This didn’t really affect us too badly as we are used to not having water during the week and had stocked up enough to last till the weekend. But, althougt the power is now on, there still isn’t any water. It’s been kind of crazy this weekend. Everywhere you look there are people with water containers trying desperately to find water. All of the shops are sold out of bottled water. Some of our neighbours cycled 3 hours to a dam to collect water there, which is too dirty to drink. Thankfully it rained again last night so at least the dams will be restocked.

Water has been a difficulty since the day we arrived in Tamale, but up till now its been more of a nuisance than a real threat. We’ve always been able to get water somewhere, either from a friends house or buying bottled water to drink. But those options have been taken away and nobody has water. At the very least I’m sure more bottled water is on it’s way up here from the south and I’ve been told the VRA (water board) are promising the water will be turned on today. Other than water concerns, this weekend has been kind of boring too. We were planning on going swimming on Saturday, but that had to be cancelled due to lack of water. Lot of places in town were closed also cos of the water shortage. I did go with my friend Sahadatu to visit her mother. It’s always lovely to go to visit normal local houses. They are such a lovely family and really make me feel welcome. I was surprised by how big their family home is. It is a compound with about 10 rooms all facing the central courtyard where the cooking/eating/socialising etc is all done. There is a huge mango tree in the middle which provides shade so it was pretty cool and comfortable. I didn’t take my camera, but I wish I had as Sahadatu and her mum look so alike! No doubt I’ll go back again soon.

Apparently it is 43 degrees C today. Bloody hell, it’s far too hot.

Here is a photo taken at the weekend when all the VSO volunteers who arrived in Ghana with me came to Tamale for a meeting.  This is a few of us in Anirban’s house with his neighbour Rauf.  I’m wearing one of my new skirts (and matching head scarf) - like it?

So the funeral in Yendi seemed to go OK yesterday.  We were advised not to go into town as there may be trouble, but Pam and I decided to go in anyway to see what was going on.  Only joking mum, don’t worry.  We stayed clear and haven’t seen or heard of any trouble.  One of my colleagues went to Yendi and said it was really busy but there was no violence or anything like that. Here’s the BBC’s report.

It’s so hot today, 42 degrees C I’m told but it feels hotter. Hotter than a sauna. Even my Ghanaian colleagues are complaining that it’s too hot.  It’s hard to do anything when it’s like this.  And it’s really humid and sweaty which is unusual for Tamale.  I’m afraid it’s too hot for me to think of anything interesting to write. 

Here’s a picutre of my friends at the shop with some sweets and toys my brother sent from Japan. 

This is my brief and probably not very accruate understanding of the Dagbon chieftaincy crisis which has been ongoing for the past few years but looks close to coming to an end.

Tamale is the capital of the Northern Region which is an area inhabited predominantly by the Dagbon people.  The Dagbon tribe is further split into 2 groups - the Abudu and the Andani.  These take it in turns to hold the chieftaincy.   So the last chief was Andani - Ya-Na Yakubu Andani II.  So it should have been the turn for the Abudu to take up the chieftaincy when he died. Problem is he was killed and they claim he was murdered by members of Abudu so that they should not have the right to take up the chieftaincy and there should be a new Andani chief. 

So anyway, the funeral rights of the dead chief cannot be done until a new chief is appointed which cannot be done until it is decided which tribe should hold the chieftaincy.  He was killed in 2002!  recenty they have been holding more discussions and they have arranged a funeral for Ya-Na Yakubu Andani II on the 10th April and after that a new chief will be appointed. 

So it will be interesting times to see what happens and hopefully it will all be sorted out peacefully!

here’s what the BBC said at the time BBC news 5th April 2002

Kofi is Simli Aid’s accountant and he is really lovely and has been so kind to me since I arrived. He took me to hospital and looked after me then, bringing me pineapple and ice cream.  So when he invited me to his wedding I accepted straight away.

It’s a long journey to Nyanyano, near Accra so we planned to leave Tamale at 4am on Friday.  In typical Ghanaian style we didn’t leave till around 5.30am and the bus that had been hired was really old and so cramped, with about 25 people in it. It was probably the most uncomfortable journey I have ever made.  Really hot (no a/c!) hardly any room and it took a crazy 18 hours!! If I’d known it was going to take so long I think I might have reconsidered going.  It didn’t help that our driver got lost a few times.. anyway, we got to Nyanyano around 11pm totally exhausted and just went straight to bed. We were woken at 6am and told the wedding was at 9am, so we were ready and waiting, but nothing happened.  In true Ghanaian style, the wedding didn’t actually start till about 12.  It is so frustrating just waiting around not knowing what’s happening, but I guess I’ll have to get used to it!

Anyway it was worth the wait cos the wedding was amazing!  It was in a Baptist church and everyone was singing and dancing.  At one point, each group of friends had to get up to the front and do a dance. So I was up there with the Simli Aid group dancing away to some evangelical song. It was excellent. Everyone thought we were hilarious, being white (me, Jen and Pam – who is considered white too).

The service lasted about 4 hours!  We left a bit early as couldn’t understand the sermon which was in Twi.  Everyone then came back to the hotel, where we were staying, for food, speeches and dancing. Again, we provided entertainment when we danced and the kids were laughing at us so much!  I even managed to break my shoes! 

The party finished fairly early whcih was a good thing as we had to leave the next day at 3am. The journey home was a bit better asseveral people stayed in Accra so the bus wasn’t full and we didn’t get lost. We arrived back to Tamale about 6pm very tired and sweaty and looking forward to a shower only to find the water was off. Very disappointing!